Building on the house codes defined in the Fall 2017 RTW runway show, Raf Simons’ Pre-Spring 2019 Calvin Klein 205W39NYC collection expands on that same kaleidoscopic view of America.
Scratch a placid surface to reveal its darker undercurrent: ethereal prairie dresses are juxtaposed with black vinyl, and a full, 50’s skirted trench comes rendered in glossy black coated cotton. Natural cowhide and touches of turquoise evoke the American southwest, while a mid-century Technicolor palette of pinks, oranges and lemon yellow recall diner waitresses. Elsewhere, Fall’s marching band uniforms return, accompanied by pants bearing ornamental cord work that nods to the pageantry of western formalwear.
These archetypal American idioms are presented on a level playing field. From uptown opera coats to polyester workwear, all are of equal merit in the eyes of Raf Simons: ageless and iconoclastic, of equal parts industry and couture.Available here